A Visit To Antwerp.

City Street, Antwerp.
When we arrived in Brussels Zaventem Airport, Peter had assistance to get off the plane and was put into a wheelchair. When I retrieved our luggage, I found that one of its four wheels had broken off. I was quite mad, because it was brand new and although it was still moveable, it definitely didn't move as smoothly as it had before. I felt we had enough problems already without the bag adding more. Plus this is not the first time we have got on a plane with a good bag and got off with an unusable one. I can't remember where we were, but we once put a brand new bag on a plane and collected a bag whose front pocket looked like it had been slashed with a knife.
The young man pushing Peter in the wheelchair took us all the way to the train station and helped us buy tickets for Antwerp. He even put us on the correct platform for the next Antwerp train, then he left. Two men who were standing on the platform approached us and asked us if we would need help boarding the train. I accepted, because manoeuvring Peter and our big broken case was not easy. However, nothing prepared me for the horror that was the train. When it arrived, it had an incredibly narrow entrance and several steep steps up to it. The men helped Peter on and I tried to lift the case up onto the train, but when I raised it, I couldn't see what I was doing and ended up battering it into the step below the top one. The force with which I had swung it pushed me backwards and I lost my balance and almost ended up under the train. One of the helpful men rescued me and put the suitcase on for me. He said he was getting off at Antwerp and offered to help us off, too. We travelled three stops, passing through Mechelen and Antwerp Berchem before arriving at Antwerp Centraal Station. True to his word, the very friendly helpful man helped us get off the train. To be honest I don't know what we would have done without him.
I don't know why, but we had arrived in Antwerp without really preparing ourselves for the visit. We knew the hotel was near the station, but we did not know exactly where and we hadn't expected the station to be so big. In fact Antwerp Centraal is rather stunning. It is sometimes even described as a cathedral station because it is such an impressive building. Little did I know I would be spending so much time there.

Antwerp Centraal Station.

Antwerp Centraal Station.

Inside Antwerp Centraal Station.

Inside Antwerp Centraal Station.

Inside Antwerp Centraal Station.
We weren't worried about not knowing where the hotel was, as we thought we could just look it up, but unfortunately our data didn't work here, plus the free wifi was very weak and we couldn't get anything to load. I decided to leave Peter on a seat with the luggage and go and look for the hotel. I showed a lady the hotel address and asked where it was, she looked it up and unfortunately pointed out the wrong street. I followed the street that she had indicated right into Chinatown and beyond, but the hotel was nowhere to be seen, so I went into a different hotel, showed them the address and asked if they could tell me where it was. They kindly looked it up for me and sent me to the opposite end of the station where they said I should then go left. I retrieved Peter and the luggage and set off. These directions thankfully were correct and I found the Antwerp Ibis Budget Centraal Station exactly where I had been told it would be.
We checked in without any problems. We were both really tired and Peter didn't want to go out and wander around looking for somewhere to eat, actually neither did I, so I went to the Lidl supermarket next door and bought a baguette, cold meat and sliced cheese for dinner. Unfortunately there were no cold beers in Lidl, so I wandered back through the station looking for a shop that sold cold drinks, eventually I found a delicatessen and bought cold beers, cold coffees, cold diet pepsi and cold milk from there. I felt I had sufficient in the cold department.
That night I woke up in a cold sweat. Peter was lying next to me sound asleep and I woke him up and said: "You don't understand, I nearly fell under that train today. I can't do it. I can't manage to get you and the luggage on to the train on the way back. I just can't do it." He told me not to worry about it, it would be fixable somehow, but I lay awake for hours. When I did finally get to sleep, Peter suddenly woke me up to say he'd found a site online where we could book assisted train boarding for the way back. We tried to book it, but it wouldn't work and the website was a bit confusing to use. After that I couldn't get back to sleep.
In the morning we had a very good breakfast in the hotel with lots of excellent coffee, cereal, bread rolls, cold meat, cheese, boiled egg and fruit juice. Then I took Peter back to the room. After that I headed back to the station to try and sort out help for the return journey to the airport.
I wandered around trying to find a member of staff to tell me where I could book assisted boarding, but there didn't seem to be any members of staff around, so eventually I entered the ticket office. Some very helpful young men, pointed out that I needed to take a ticket number from the machine outside, so I went back out and got one. Belgian people do seem to be very kind.
After a very long wait, it was finally my turn. I told the girl what I had come for and she said: "There's a website. You have to do that yourself online." I think she expected me to leave, but I didn't. I told her we had tried that site, but it hadn't worked, so a bit reluctantly she agreed to help me. She opened up the site we had been on and started noting down Peter's details. When she had finished doing that and pressed complete, it flashed up lots of errors and wouldn't work. She tried again. It failed again. I was conscious that a rather large queue was forming behind me. "It's because you haven't got a Belgian address," the girl said after some time looking at her screen. She then called for her supervisor to find out what to do in such a situation. The supervisor told her she should use the address of the station as my home address. The girl re-entered all the information using the station address, but this time the internet went down and nothing would load. We both watched a circle turning around endlessly on her screen. She tried again - same problem. She got on the phone and after several tries booked me assistance verbally. She said it was all sorted out and that they'd send a confirmation email straight away. I thanked her and went back to the hotel. I checked my email when I got in. No confirmation email had arrived. I still wasn't sure if we would get help to get on the train. Peter told me to stop worrying. It would be all right, but I can't stop worrying, that's just not me.
It was time to look at something. I suggested taking transport to the city centre and putting Peter in a bar while I had a look around. He said he would rather rest, as he still didn't feel too great, so I went out on my own. I picked up a free map from the tourist office in the station. Yes, there again. It really did feel like my home address. I still didn't really know what I wanted to see, but I headed towards the historical centre of Antwerp, passing some beautiful buildings on the way.

Statue of David Teniers, a Flemish artist, on the way to the historical centre.

The Opera.

Statue of Flemish artist, Antoon Van Dyck.

Fishing Eagle Statue.

Blossom and cafe near this fountain.

Statue on front of building.

Statdsffestival Shopping Hall.

Bicycle.

City bikes.

Passing Bike tour.
Antwerp is a port city located on the River Scheldt. It is the capital city of the Flanders Region and has a population of around 500,000. Many people claim the city's name comes from an old legend. According to the legend there was once a terrifying giant called Antigoon who lived on the banks of the River Scheldt. If anyone ever tried to cross the river, Antigoon would demand they paid him a hefty toll. If they refused to pay, he would attack them with his sword, cut off one of their hands and throw it into the river. Eventually a brave young man called Silvius Brabo decided to fight the giant. There was a fierce battle between them, but Bravo finally emerged victorious. After he had killed him, Brabo cut off one of the giant's hands and threw it into the river. The name Antwerp comes from the Flemish word for hand, which is 'hand' and the verb 'werpen' which means to throw. Over time the name 'Handwerpen' became shortened to Antwerpen.
Eventually after a walk of around twenty minutes, I arrived in Groenplaats which means Green Place. Groenplaats is next to the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal - the Cathedral of Our Lady. At one time this was the site of the cathedral's cemetery, which is why it is called Green Place but isn't particularly green. In the eighteenth century when Austria occupied Antwerp, Emperor Joseph II abolished cemeteries within the city walls and this area became a town square. In the centre of Groenplaats there is a statue of the famous Flemish painter, Peter Paul Rubens. He is a real hero in Antwerp. This statue was created by sculptor Willem Geefs and dates from 1843. The Hilton Hotel is located here and there are also several restaurants.

Groenplaats and the statue of Peter Paul Rubens.

Groenplaats.

The Hilton Hotel.
After a look around the Green Place, I headed to Handschoenenmarkt, the square at the front entrance of the Cathedral of Our Lady. In the sixteenth century, gloves and pelts were traded here. The Cathedral of Our Lady was begun in the fourteenth century and finished in 1518. Apparently it has three works by Rubens: 'The Descent from the Cross', 'The Elevation of the Cross' and 'The Assumption'. It is the tallest cathedral in the Low Countries. I didn't go inside. On the outside there is a rather interesting statue of workers building the cathedral. The cathedral doors are very ornate.

The Cathedral of Our Lady.

The cathedral door.

Pieter Appelmans Monument dedicated to cathedral architect Pieter Appelmans.

Pieter Appelmans Monument outside the cathedral.
Also in Handschoenenmarkt there is a marble statue of Nello and his dog Patrasche. This was sculpted by Batist Vermeulen. Nello and his dog Patrasche are characters from a story, 'A Dog of Flanders', written in 1872 by Ouida whose real name was Marie Louise de la Ramée. In the story Nello is an orphan boy who wants to be a painter. Nello greatly admires Rubens and wants to see his famous paintings inside The Cathedral of Our Lady, but he has no money to go inside. However, one Christmas Eve, Nello finds the doors of the cathedral open to everyone and goes inside. He sits unobserved with his dog beneath one of Rubens paintings, and they stay there all night, but sadly they both freeze to death. This story isn't well known in Belgium, but due to an anime television series aired in the 1970's the story is a huge success in South East Asia.

Statue of Nello and his dog Patrasche trying to keep warm under the cobblestones.
There's also a well on this square called The Well of Quintin Metsijs. Quintin Metsijs was a blacksmith who fell in love with a woman called Catherina Heyns. She was the daughter of an artist and her father wanted her to marry someone more important than a mere blacksmith. Instead of giving up, Quintin Metsijs decided to try and become a painter, too. One day he sneaked into Catherina's father's studio and painted a fly on a canvas he was about to use. The fly was so realistic looking that when he saw it, Catherina's father tried to swat it away. This made him realise that Quintin Metsijs was talented after all and he decided to agree to the marriage. Quintin Metsijs went on to became one of the founders of the Antwerp School of artists. The well has an inscription which reads: ': ‘Dese putkevie werd gesmeed door Quinten Matsijs. De liefde maeckte van den smidt eenen schilder.’ which means: "The ironwork for this well was forged by Quinten Metsys. Love makes the blacksmith a painter." There's also a famous lace shop on this square.

The Cathedral of Our Lady and The Well of Quintin Metsijs to the left of it.

Lace shop.
There are also shops and restaurants here.

Handschoenenmarkt.

Shop somewhere in the historical centre.

Shop somewhere in the historical centre.

Fridge magnets.

Al fresco dining somewhere in the historical centre.
From here I went to Grote Markt, Antwerp's main square. This square is home to Antwerp's city hall and to several guild halls. The Brabo Fountain is located in the middle of the square. It was in the process of being renovated during our visit. The city hall was completed in 1564 which was a time when trade in Antwerp was booming, unfortunately though, it was badly damaged in a fire twelve years later. The fire was started deliberately by Spanish soldiers who were plundering the city. The guild halls on Grote Markt mainly date from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The Brabo Fountain depicts the legend of Silvius Brabo throwing away the severed hand of the giant, Antigoon. The fountain was created by Jef Lambeaux in 1887.

Antwerp's City Hall.

The Brabo Fountain.

Guild Halls.

Guild Halls.

Grote Markt, looking back at the cathedral.

Street in the old historical centre with a statue of a girl throwing a rope.

City Square somewhere in the historical centre.
At this point I saw a sign for a nearby church called Saint Charles Borromeo's Church. I went to have a look. This was built between 1614 and 1621 for the Jesuit Order. At one time the ceiling of this church were decorated with thirty-nine paintings by Peter Paul Rubens, but sadly these were destroyed in a fire. I thought the church was beautiful, especially all the wood carvings inside it. Opposite the church is the old city library and in front of the library there's a statue of Flemish writer, Hendrick Conscience.

The facade of Saint Charles Borromeo's Church.

Closer view of Saint Charles Borromeo's Church.

Inside Saint Charles Borromeo's Church.

Inside Saint Charles Borromeo's Church.

Altar.

Painting of The Holy Family by Rubens.

Saint Francis Xavier.

Beautiful wood angels.

Beautiful wood carvings.

Beautiful Wood carvings.

Painting of Sant Anne and wood carvings.

Carved panels.

I lit a candle here and prayed I would be able to get Peter back home.

Madonna and child.

This art work is more modern.

Charles Borromeo's Statue.

Statue and candles.

Old City Library opposite the church.
I picked up a leaflet inside the church telling me that Saint Charles Borromeo's Church was one of four beautiful churches within easy walking distance of each other, so I decided to continue on to the next church on the list. This was Sint-Jacobskerk - the Church of Saint James. This gothic church was built between 1491 and 1656 by the Waghemakere family and Rombout Keldermans. It is built on the site of a former hostel for pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela. This church was intended to have a much taller tower but in the end this proved to be too expensive. Peter Paul Rubens' tomb is located in the eastern chapel of this church. I could not see all of the church, much of it was closed for restoration, but a life size replica of the interior of the church was hung over the area being restored. It was very skilfully done and from a distance looked completely real.

Sint-Jacobskerk exterior.

It's very peaceful inside.

Interior with light streaming in.

Christ on the cross.

Beautiful painting.

Painting.

Triptych.

Saint and painting.

Saint and candles.

Statue covered with pieces of tape. Not sure why.
After visiting this church, I visited one more before I became churched out. The third church I visited was the Church of Saint Paul. This is located near the River Scheldt in an area that used to be inhabited by fishermen. This church was built in the sixteenth century as a Dominican monastery. I entered the church next to the ruins of the old monastery. There Is a garden here with shrines based on those at Lourdes. There were also lots of bluebells here. This church has wonderful paintings and incredible wood carvings, but my favourite part was Calvary. This is a garden with more than sixty statues. It was built on the site of the monastery graveyard at a time when the Holy Land had become inaccessible due to advancing Ottoman troops. It was the idea of Dominicus van Ketwigh, an Antwerp Dominican, who wanted people to come there to experience the life story of Christ without having to endure the dangers of going to Jerusalem. It cost five euros to go inside this church.

Saint Paul's exterior.

Monastery ruins and shrine based on Lourdes.

Monastery ruins and shrine based on Lourdes.

Stations of the cross.

Interior.

Interior.

Interior.

Robes of Dominican Order.

Painting of a Dominican.

Carved pews.

Wood carvings.

Wood carvings.

Painting, carvings, lions.

Carved lions.

Painting of Christ being taken down from the cross.

Tapestry.

Angels and candle.

Exterior of Saint Paul's from Calvary.

Calvary.

Calvary.

Calvary.

Calvary.

Statue in Calvary.
When I left Saint Paul's, I headed towards the river. I came to two very impressive old buildings, but at the time did not know what they were. I now know that the largest one is the Antwerp Pilotage. Workers here were responsible for piloting and providing nautical services to ships at sea and on the River Scheldt. This building was designed by Hendrik Kennes and Ferdinand Truyman and was inaugurated in 1895. Apparently it is now being converted into a Flemish culinary centre. The building next to it was an old buoy warehouse where buoys were once maintained and repaired. On top of the pilotage there is another statue of Bravo throwing away the giant's severed hand.

Pilotage.

The pilotage and old buoy warehouse.

Looking back at the Pilotage and old buoy warehouse.

Close up of Bravo statue on the roof.
From here I walked along the river back towards the old historical centre. I passed a lovely sailing ship.

Beautiful Sailing ship.

Ship.

Looking back along the Waterfront.

Walking forward along the waterfront.
Eventually I came to Det Steen - Antwerp Castle. Apparently there have been fortified buildings on this site since around the year 650. The earliest ones were made of sandstone and were built to repel Viking raids. Over time these sandstone structures decayed, so stone buildings were constructed here instead. The name Det Steen is Dutch for 'the rock'. Initially it was a defensive structure, then it became the residence of the Márgrave de Antwerp, then it became a prison and then a naval museum. Nowadays it houses an exhibition called The Antwerp Story.

Statue next to the back of the Castle.

The back of the Castle.

Castle.

Crucifix at the castle

Crucifix at the Castle.

In the Castle Courtyard.
In front of the castle there is a statue of Lange Wapper. Lange Wapper was a normal sized man, but when he wandered the streets of Antwerp after nightfall and found anyone drunk or causing trouble, he grew and grew until he became a terrifying giant and scared them so much they would rush home terrified.

The front of the Castle.

Castle and Lange Wapper.

Lange Wapper and castle.
There's also a statue of a god called Semini above the main door of the castle. This is believed to be a fertility symbol and women used to come here to pray to get pregnant. That's not going to happen to me as I never even noticed it!! Though now I know where it is I can see its position on my pictures of the castle entranceway.
Just beyond the castle is The View - a big wheel you can step into to look at views over the city and river. Next to it there is a statue of Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom.

Big wheel.

The big wheel.

Big wheel and Minerva statue.

Minerva statue.

Return to historical centre.

Statue and building.

Statue of a dock worker.
I phoned Peter to see if he wanted me to take him out to dinner. He didn't, so I bought quiche and burgers then headed back to the hotel.